Two days after I opened it — and stored it with a vacuum seal in my fridge — this wine changed totally, and for the better. What came off initially as an overly-alcoholic, clumsy, fruit bomb developed into a gentle giant, capable of both power and subtlety. A lovely translucent, garnet color with a touch of black (wine blogger Jerry Hall says the 2004 edition “looks unfiltered,” and so does this one) is followed by a deluxe, earthy, meaty nose with lots of black cherry and crushed violet flowers. On the palate, this wine has plenty of cherry and berry flavors, softness, spiciness, and a touch of pleasing fresh, wet, dirt note that makes you hunger for the bacon-wrapped filet that Mr. Hall recommends with it. Medium bodied, with a decent finish. But the best part of this wine is the way it evolved. I would have guessed it was French, for that alone. Here’s a hint: it’s not, but some of the grapes came from a new hillside appellation in California that many think is the new Côte d’Or.

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This varietal isn’t usually thought of as rich and powerful, but one whiff of this example and you’re surrounded by a perfume cloud of ripe grapefruit and lime. The mouthfeel is sleek, sure. But a big, delicious wave of citrus flavors (including a punch of kiwi) washes over the palate. Refreshing and satisfying at once. Clean finish, with this grape’s trademark note of gooseberry. Hint: this wine is well-known for its affinity with goat cheese and indeed I loved it, especially with some Spanish “Tres Leches,” made from goat, sheep, and cow milk. Pale in color, with shades of green and gold.

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Aromas of fresh-baked bread, wet stones, and citrus fruit jump from this wine. It’s got a pure, vivid color between straw and gold, with a slight touch of sunset red. Lots of medium-sized bubbles swirl toward the surface. The wine washes over the palate with loads of lemon, blood orange, and golden-delicious apple flavors, leaving a distinct, bracing, steely taste. Notes of yeast; completely dry, and nervy, considering how rich it is. A long, clean finish says this wine would be a versatile partner with all sorts of food, from canapés to game hen to crème brûlée. A thirty-something-dollar price tag says you can serve it at a dinner party without taking out a second mortgage.

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This big red has a deep, dark color — almost black — and a powerful nose of black fruit, cassis, a touch of Christmas spice (cinnamon, nutmeg), and lots of vanilla and toast. You can tell it spent a lot of time in new oak; wines from its region typically do, but this example might have got an extra dose. In the mouth, you get good fresh acids considering the wine’s ponderous body. Lots of delicious blackberry and some blueberry liqueur flavors, some leather and asphalt on the edges. Loads of glycerine and ripe tannins betray the fact that it’s from a warm vintage.

But the wine’s long, mouthstaining finish shows what is (according to this drinker’s taste) its only flaw: a distinctly woody aftertaste says, “too much oak!” This showy beverage might stand out in a blind tasting, but, as a meal itself in a glass, it couldn’t play ball with my pepperoni pizza.

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(”What’s in Wine Girl’s Glass?” is a weekly quiz featuring a description of one of the wines she is currently enjoying. From the details of her tasting notes, readers can try to guess what sort of wine it is. The winners, if they like, will be named and quoted in the next instalment.)

Hedonistic is first word to come to mind. Dark, dark purple in the glass, with a gorgeous nose of blackberry, cedar, and a little mocha. Huge, sweet flavors of black fruit nicely rounded out with a touch of toasty oak, chocolate and coffee. A pleasant hint of green pepper way in the back. Lucious, soft mouthfeel, with a long finish, this wine is almost like a liquid dessert, but its mountainous origins are revealed by its extraction and solid structure. Impeccable. Hint: this wine’s popularity took a recent hit, but this particular winery is known for its consistently A-1 efforts with it.

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(”What’s in Wine Girl’s Glass?” is a weekly quiz featuring a description of one of the wines she is currently enjoying. From the details of her tasting notes, readers can try to guess what sort of wine it is. The winners, if they like, will be named and quoted in the next instalment.)

Today I drank a fun red wine that went perfectly with a pastrami and cheese sandwich, dressed with a little fruit relish. The wine was light-to-medium bodied, ruby colored, and smelled of red berries and violets. Exuberant fruit, held together by a mouthwatering envelope of tartness, made it perfect with food. I like this wine young, but not as young as its “nouveau” version … what could it be?

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