Paso Robles Report, Part 3: Tablas Creek

You’d think that Tablas Creek’s remote location, more than a half hour’s drive into the oak-dotted hills from Paso Robles, would deter people. But no. In fact as we drove up, a stretch limo was disgorging a leesy troop of bachelorette-partiers; I worried they might be examples of the wine tasters gone wild phenomenon. Indeed, they were a symptom of a tasting room crowded with warm bodies getting warmer by the glass.

I shouldn’t have been surprised. One of the first large-ish wineries to set up shop in the area — France’s Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape teamed up with its American importer to buy 120 acres in 1987, the Pleistocene Age in Paso terms — Tablas Creek now produces about 22,000 cases, and is pretty recognizable thanks to savvy marketing and kind associations on the part of Rhône wine lovers with Beaucastel and its owners the Perrin family.

Why am I glad I didn’t turn around and flee? Click here to find out:

Especially after having just visited Justin Vineyards around the hill, whose recent growth has I’m afraid negatively impacted the quality of its wines, bustling Tablas Creek was a comparative breath of fresh air. Or, in the case of their whites, by which I was very pleased, a whiff of fresh, floral aromas. With the sole exception of the rosé, I liked every wine in their 8-wine tasting lineup — and even loved a couple. Here are my notes:

2006 Côtes de Tablas Blanc (mostly viognier and marsanne, $22): Light and fresh in mouth, preceded by a rich honeysuckle nose. Very attractive aromatics.

2005 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc (mostly roussanne with about a quarter grenache blanc, $35): Bigger in the mouth than the Côtes, with pear and almond flavors. I wasn’t crazy about the slightly cloying finish, though.

2005 Roussanne ($27): Great! Better knit and a cleaner mouthfeel than the Esprit Blanc, with classic pear and almond roussanne flavors.

2006 Rosé (mostly mourvedre and grenache, $27): Like the rosé experiment at Kaleidos, this was the only wine at Tablas Creek I didn’t like. Similarly, it’s a little sweet. Surprisingly so, considering the French influence at this winery and Perrins’ orientation toward mourvedre, the dominant grape in this blend. I expected at dry, earthy Bandol knock-off, especially at this price, but got a candied, simple, Cali pink. Is Paso as of yet unable to master the art of the good dry rosé?

2005 Côtes de Tablas Rouge (grenache, mourvedre, syrah, $22): Delicious. Fruity, but with pepper and some seriousness. For this quality, a bargain.

2005 Mourvedre ($35): A true mourvedre, with a deep, dark color and loads of black fruit. Very earthy and brambly for a California red! A touch of that tell-tale diesel flavor I associate with mourvedre. Loved it.

2003 and 2004 Esprit de Beaucastel: the Perrin’s effort at a twin brother to their famous Chateauneuf du Pape (about half mouvedre, plus grenache and syrah, $45), the server let me taste these two vintages side by side. I preferred the 2003 because of its pure blackberry flavors and brambly notes. Seemed very balanced to me.

2004 Tannat ($35): Big, black, and tannic. The server said it might soften with some time in the bottle.

2005 Vin de Paille ($65/375 ml.): This spiffy dessert wine was the surprise favorite of the visit. The grapes are picked at regular ripeness (so it’s not a “late harvest” wine). But then they’re dried on straw mats and fermented. Wow. Impressive harmony between the sweetness and a thin streak of acidic backbone. Orange marmalade, Meyer lemon, and very ripe pineapple. Lots of deliciously well-defined flavors, and an endless, silky finish.